Everest Blog

Back to Civilization

We awoke today to find that the skies had cleared - it is amazing how as technically advanced as we have become nature can still triumph over us. But this morning, nature is on our side. The flight home was surprisingly uneventful - the fear we all had on the flight in is gone and in spite of knowing that taking off from the "most dangerous airport in the world" is as dangerous as landing there we are all calm and looking forward to returning to the chaos of Kathmandu. I have promised the others that I will have a shower that lasts for at least 30 minutes and we shall see. A lot of my gear has been donated to the Sherpas - an act of generosity to be sure but I will be honest and say that I was convinced that the smell of trekking would never be truly removed. We have had such an amazing journey - the Monks, Everest Base Camp, and of course summiting Kala Pattar. Our laptops are filled with amazing data and I have been to the highest mountain in the world - a dream of mine since I was a young boy learning about Tenzing Norgay for a school report. I wonder if I shall ever return to this amazing place?

Our arrival into Kathmandu is a drastic contrast to the mountains - the number of people, the noise, and the confusion is almost overwhelming. The comparison of the Kathmandu Guest House to the lodges we have been staying in is almost surreal. I will sign off now as the long shower I mentioned is calling my name and then a very, very long nap.

Lukla

The picture says it all. The most "dangerous" airport in the world is closed due to fog. We are sad as we all awoke at 5:30am hoping to fly out of here, but now, we are going to spend the day in Lukla. It's safe to say there is nothing to do, but at least a bit of relaxation and unwinding is welcome after all the miles we have put on our feet.

A Journey Over

Sagarmartha

Today we left Namche and trekked through the Sagarmartha National Park enroute to Phakding and tomorrow Lukla. We were silent most of the day, walking silently, as we gazed at the beauty of this place and pondered memories of the amazing times we have had here.

Back to Namche Bazaar

Nothing like starting the day with a 650 foot climb (200 m) up to the Hillary Lookout to make one feel like you are on top of the world!

And to top that off? A visit to the Khumjung Monastery to see a Yeti Scalp!

And what better way to end a long day's trek? A pint of Guinness at the highest altitude Irish Pub in the world!

Kunde

Today we trekked from Pangboche to Kunde - a long seven hour day. Just over 10km, but a lot of vertical which pretty much doubled the distance. Jeff and I were at the back of the pack with our head Sherpa Nima, when he got a little grin on his face and asked us if we wanted to try the "Nepali short cut". He proceeded to turn off the main trail and head pretty much straight down - Jeff and I leapfrogged to the front of our team, crossing the bridge 30 minutes before anyone else. I am fairly certain the trail we took would not have been approved by Parks Canada!

Where do trekkers stay in Nepal? "Tea houses" — lodges that vary quite a bit in terms of comfort. The rooms are simple and small but very clean. The facilities are down the hall and hot showers cost extra - as does wifi and simply charging an electronic device - electricity is a commodity that is for sale in this part of Nepal.

Pangboche and the Journey Home

Yesterday after our summit of Kala Pattar we had a long trek back to Pheriche, bypassing Lobouche. It was a sad journey as we were leaving an incredible place that we only visited very briefly but at the same time we had such an incredible two days. Today, we had a very short walk to Pangboche — just under two hours — as a form of a rest day to recover from two very hard days of trekking and climbing. I am continually amazed at how warm and friendly the Nepalese people are.

Prayer stones are found throughout the region — the local monks write out prayers to bring blessings and fortune. The stones are frequently seen in and around towns but they can also be found out beside the trails to bring luck and health to the porters and other people walking the roads of Nepal.

Kala Pattar

The high point of today was summit attempt — Kala Pattar (18,423 feet). About a third of our group is unable to make the attempt — a combination of fatigue and altitude sickness. My legs are tired but I am excited, even with a 4:45am start time. We have clear weather, the first time in days, and are excited for great views of Everest and the surrounding mountains.

On top of Kala Pattar! 18,423 feet! A clear view of Everest — in the middle of the picture, the South Col. Just to the left, the Hillary Step. Just to the right, Lhotse. In the foreground, Nuptse.

Everest Base Camp

My first good view of Everest on the trail to Gorek Shep and Everest Base Camp — Nuptse is in the foreground. Although it is the highest mountain in the world, it is actually almost impossible to see all of Everest from the Nepali side.

Everest Base Camp! The Khumbu Icefall is clearly visible — the route up Everest for the climbers is right in the middle of the picture. Collecting EEG data at Everest Base Camp — as far as I know, the highest ever event-related potential study ever conducted at 17,388 feet.

Lobouche: A Hard Climb

Today was the hardest day of the trek — we knew we had to climb from Pheriche to Loubouche — a gain of 2300 ft (700 m). The journey started with a gentle climb along the valley, but after that we began the climb to Dougla, a quick gain of 820 ft (250 m), before continuing to the summit — a gain of 1970 ft (600 m) over a very short horizontal distance. Our group did well and our training paid off — we stuck together and kept a slow pace to minimize the effects of altitude. Exertion is our enemy as over-exertion will greatly increase our chances of getting altitude sickness.

At the top, we encountered the climbers' memorials — the place where many of the people who have died on Everest are remembered. It was a somber reminder of where we are. And then, there are the people who died just last year in the avalanche through Base Camp.

Tomorrow we trek to Gorek Shep and then to Everest Base Camp — the goal of our journey. My laboratory will set up and we will collect what I believe to be the highest ever recorded event-related brain potential data.